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  Silk dyes will produce more vibrant colour results
than iron fix silk
paints. The dyes penetrate the fibres and are
locked within the fabric through the steaming process,
ensuring greater wash and light fastness. The results of
this process far outweigh any inconvenience as the silk
remains supple while silk paints tend to leave a residue
on the surface making the fabric stiffer. The
colours from silk paints (which contain water, pigment and
an acrylic binder) are set on the fabric when
the heat from an iron 'melts' the binder to create a bond.
The handle of the silk fabric is less fluid than silk
fabric that has been painted with steam-fix dyes.
We offer two ranges of liquid dyes which are ideal
for silk painting, these include
H Dupont
Classique dyes and
Jacquard Silk Colours.
The first thing to know about steam fixing is that
it is a 'dry' process. The dye is bonded to the fabric
at the temperature of steam. The fabric itself must
be kept dry throughout the fixing process,
any water in contact with the painted areas will cause
the colours to run or smudge.
Yarns and fibres dyed with acid dyes can also be heat
set using the steam method.
To Steam Fix your Work
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Expensive equipment is not necessary to steam fix
your work. A pressure cooker is useful for small pieces,
and a bamboo rice steamer fitted over a saucepan of
water can be very effective. The use of a large, specially
designed steamer (the
Uhlig steamer is pictured right) is only necessary if you
are fixing longer lengths and quantities and would be
a useful addition to a workshop or classroom.
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First make sure that all the painted surfaces are
completely dry. Lay the work flat on a sheet of paper
slightly larger than the silk fabric, several sheets
of overlapped paper may be needed if the length of
fabric is quite long.
The purpose of the paper is to avoid any contact between
layers of the painted silk and to prevent gutta, where
used, from sticking to the next layer. Lining paper
will do for small items, but it is fragile and may
rip, allowing contact and transfer of the dye between
layers. Special
steaming
paper is advisable and is significantly
stronger.
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Starting from one side, fold the packet gently
until it is small enough to fit within the steamer
leaving a space around the edge; this is the point
at which tears in the paper can occur. Now wrap the
packet in aluminium foil. Remember water must not get
into the packet, so ensure the edges are sealed
tightly, and any steam condensing on the packet in the
heating up period can not run inside and ruin your
work.
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Run about 2cm of water into the pressure cooker
and put the pack inside, keeping it well above the water
surface by placing it on a basin. Put a further disc
of foil over the pack to act as a shield from any
drips of water.
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Seal the lid, without using the pressure valve,
and raise to the boil over 15 minutes and steam gently
for 45 minutes. Allow to cool and open carefully.
Steaming over an open pan will take up to 2 hours.
The steaming paper can often be reused, but the foil
may well leak and allow water in to ruin your next
project.
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