A Practical Guide to Natural Dyeing – How to Get the Best from Natural Dyes

How to Get the Best from Natural Dyes

Natural dyeing is as much about discovery as it is about understanding the process. Small variations in water, fibre, temperature and dye concentration can produce beautifully unique results, which is part of its enduring appeal. It isn’t about following rigid rules; it’s about understanding a few simple principles and enjoying the process of experimenting. This practical guide to natural dyeing will help you to get the best results from natural dyes.

Natural dyed wool yarns and silk fabric

Mordants are metal salts that form a chemical bridge between natural dye molecules and fibres. They have been used in textile dyeing for thousands of years to improve colour fastness and, in many cases, to modify the final colour. This knowledge has been passed down through the millennia and is still used today.

This guide to natural dyeing explains how to mordant protein and cellulose fibres before dyeing, followed by three quick-reference tables showing the colours you can expect from natural dyes, how much natural dye to use, and how colours can be modified after dyeing.

Tip: Mordanting prepares the fibre before dyeing. Colour modifiers such as Iron, Copper, Tin and Titanium Oxalate are usually applied after dyeing to shift the final colour.

It is important to note that there are two distinct groups of natural fibres and these will require different mordanting processes. It is essential to know the type of fibres you are dyeing to ensure the best results from natural dyes.

Protein Fibres Merino Wool and Mulberry Silk Blended Tops for dyeing and spinning

Protein fibres are derived from animal sources and include Wool, Silk and Hair. Regenerated protein fibres include Soybean (plant protein) and Casein (milk protein).

Method for Mordanting Protein Fibres

    • Weigh your dry fibres.
    • Fibres, fabrics or yarns should be scoured before dyeing to remove dirt and grease from handling.
    • The amount of water should be deep enough to submerge the fibres and allow them to move freely in the solution.
    • The fibres should be squeezed out to remove excess water and placed in the mordant pot while still damp.
    • Make a solution of Alum at 10-15% WOF by dissolving in hot water.
    • Add Cream of Tartar at 5-8% WOF to help soften wool and improve colour evenness (optional).
    • Heat gradually to around 80°C and maintain for 45–60 minutes (remembering to stir gently every 15 minutes – too much agitation can felt wool).
    • The fibres should be rinsed and squeezed out to remove excess water.
    • Add fibres to the dye pot while still damp.

Cellulose Fibres White Cotton Sliver for dyeing and spinning

Cellulose fibres are derived from plants and include Cotton, Flax (Linen) and Bamboo. Regenerated cellulose fibres include Viscose, Lyocell (Tencelâ„¢) and Modal.

Mordanting Cellulose Fibres

There are two commonly used methods for mordanting cellulose fibres. The traditional tannin-and-alum method has been used for centuries, while Aluminium Lactate offers a modern one-step alternative that can produce excellent results with less time and water.

    • Weigh your dry fibres.
    • Fibres, fabrics or yarns should be scoured before dyeing to remove dirt and grease from handling.
    • The amount of water should be deep enough to submerge the fibres and allow them to move freely in the solution.
    • The fibres should be squeezed out to remove excess water and placed in the mordant pot while still damp.

1) Traditional Method for Mordanting Cellulose Fibres

    • Heat a solution of Tannic Acid at 8-10% WOF at 40-50°C for 60 minutes.
    • Rinse the fibres and squeeze gently to remove surplus tannin.
    • Make a solution of Alum at 15% WOF by dissolving in hot water.
    • Heat the solution to 80°C and hold for 45–60 minutes.
    • The fibres should be rinsed and squeezed out to remove excess water.
    • Add fibres to the dye pot while still damp.

2) Modern Method for Mordanting Cellulose Fibres

    • Make a solution of Aluminium Lactate at 10-12% WOF in warm water.
    • Soak fibres for 2 hours (remembering to stir gently every 15 minutes).
    • The fibres should be rinsed and squeezed out to remove excess water.
    • Add fibres to the dye pot while still damp.

The amount of dyestuff required varies according to the type of natural dye, the part of the plant used, the strength of the dyestuff and the depth of colour desired. The figures below are recommended starting points for dyeing 100 g of dry fibre and are expressed as a percentage of the dry weight of fibre (WOF).

For example, 50% WOF means using 50 g of dyestuff for 100 g of dry fibre. These quantities are intended as practical starting points rather than fixed recipes. You may wish to use less dyestuff for pale shades or increase the quantity for deeper colours. Where a dye is particularly strong, or where the dyestuff is normally used at a lower concentration, this is indicated in Table 1 below.

Table 1. Recommended Dyestuff WOF for Common Natural Dyes

Natural Dye Recommended Dyestuff WOF Starting Amount per 100 g Fibre Notes
Alder Buckthorn Bark 50–100% 50–100 g Start at 50% WOF; increase for deeper yellows and browns.
Alkanet Root 50–100% 50–100 g Use lower quantities for pale lavender; colour is highly dependent on extraction pH.
Annatto Seeds 25–50% 25–50 g Annatto is relatively strong; extraction method affects the final colour.
Birch Bark 50–100% 50–100 g Start at 50% WOF; chopped or shredded bark may require longer extraction.
Bloodroot 10–25% 10–25 g A relatively strong dye; use cautiously as higher concentrations can produce intense orange-reds.
Brazilwood 25–50% 25–50 g Strong dyestuff; 25% WOF is a useful starting point.
Chamomile 50–100% 50–100 g Use the higher end for stronger yellows.
Chestnut 50–100% 50–100 g Chestnut is tannin-rich; 50% WOF is a useful starting point.
Cochineal 5–15% 5–15 g Very strong dyestuff; 10% WOF is a useful starting point for strong reds.
Cutch 10–25% 10–25 g A strong tannin-rich dyestuff; start around 10–15% WOF.
Dyer’s Greenweed 50–100% 50–100 g Use around 50% WOF for a medium shade and increase for stronger yellows.
Elderberries 50–100% 50–100 g Fresh or dried berries can vary considerably in strength; colours are not highly lightfast.
Fustic 25–50% 25–50 g Strong yellow dye; 25–30% WOF is often sufficient for a good colour.
Golden rod 50–100% 50–100 g Flowers and tops vary in strength; 50% WOF is a useful starting point.
Heather 50–100% 50–100 g Use flowering tops; colour can vary considerably according to plant material.
Henna 25–50% 25–50 g Use a fine powder; extraction and pH influence the final colour.
Ivy Leaves 50–100% 50–100 g Use fresh or dried leaves; results can be variable.
Logwood 10–25% 10–25 g Strong dyestuff; start around 10% WOF and increase cautiously.
Madder 50–100% 50–100 g 50% WOF is a useful starting point; higher quantities can produce deeper reds.
Marigold 50–100% 50–100 g Use dried flower heads; 50% WOF is a good starting point.
Oak Bark 50–100% 50–100 g Tannin-rich; 50% WOF is a useful starting point.
Oak Gall 10–25% 10–25 g Very high in tannin; relatively small quantities can be effective.
Persian Berries 25–50% 25–50 g Strong yellow dye; start around 25–30% WOF.
Poplar Buds 50–100% 50–100 g Use dried buds; extraction time can affect the depth of colour.
Safflower 100–200% 100–200 g Requires a specialised extraction process; large quantities are traditionally used because the dye is relatively weak.
St John’s Wort 50–100% 50–100 g Use dried flowering tops; colour can vary according to plant material.
Sticklac 25–50% 25–50 g Start around 25% WOF; extraction method affects colour strength.
Tansy 50–100% 50–100 g Use dried flowering tops; 50% WOF is a useful starting point.
Turmeric 10–25% 10–25 g Very strong yellow; 10% WOF can produce a strong colour.
Walnut Husks 25–50% 25–50 g Tannin-rich and generally does not require a mordant; 25% WOF is a useful starting point.
Walnut Leaves 50–100% 50–100 g Use dried leaves; higher quantities produce deeper browns.
Weld 50–100% 50–100 g 50% WOF is a useful starting point; higher quantities can produce strong yellows.

Important: These recommendations assume dried, whole or chopped plant material rather than concentrated extracts or ready-prepared dye powders. Extracts and highly concentrated dyestuffs may require substantially lower quantities. Always check the supplier’s recommended usage where one is provided.

When experimenting with an unfamiliar natural dye, it is useful to begin at the lower end of the recommended range and increase the amount in subsequent dye baths if a deeper colour is required. Keeping a record of the WOF, fibre type, mordant, water conditions, pH, temperature and dyeing time will make it much easier to reproduce successful results.

Our table below shows the typical colours you can expect from natural dyes when using the mordanting methods described above. The colours shown are intended as a practical guide rather than an exact prediction. Many factors influence the final colour, including fibre type, mordanting method, water chemistry, dye concentration and temperature. If your results differ from those shown, please see our blog post Why Is My Dye the Wrong Colour? Major Factors That Affect Dyeing Results.

Dyeing with Indigo? Indigo is a vat dye and is dyed using a reduced alkaline vat rather than a conventional heated dye bath. Because its dyeing method is fundamentally different, it is not directly comparable with the other dyes in this guide. Please see our blog post Dyeing with Indigo for further information on the process.

Table 2. Quick Reference Guide to Common Natural Dyes

Natural Dye Protein Fibres Cellulose Fibres Preferred Dye Bath pH Water Notes Recommended Maximum Temperature Light Fastness
Alder Buckthorn Bark Golden yellow to yellow-brown Soft yellow Neutral (pH 6.5–7.5) Any water hardness. 80–90°C Good
Alkanet Root Lavender to violet-purple * please see note below Pale lavender Slightly acidic (pH 5.5–6.5) Soft water generally produces cleaner violet tones. 40–60°C Moderate
Annatto Seeds Bright yellow to orange Yellow to orange Neutral to slightly alkaline (pH 7–8) Soft to moderately hard water gives consistent results. 70–80°C Poor
Birch Bark Soft, creamy yellow to pale tan Pale beige Neutral (pH 6.5–7.5) Any water hardness. 80–90°C Moderate
Bloodroot Bright orange to orange-red Orange Slightly acidic to neutral (pH 6–7) Soft water helps maintain brighter shades. 60–80°C Poor
Brazilwood Crimson Rose Slightly acidic (pH 5.5–6.5) Soft water is recommended for clearer reds. 70–80°C Poor
Chamomile Yellow Pale yellow Neutral (pH 6.5–7.5) Any water hardness. 70–80°C Moderate
Chestnut Warm tan to medium brown Tan Neutral (pH 6.5–7.5) Any water hardness. 80–90°C Very Good
Cochineal Carmine Red Pink Slightly acidic (pH 5.5–6.5) Soft water produces the brightest, cleanest reds. 80–90°C Very Good
Cutch Rich brown Tan Neutral (pH 6.5–7.5) Any water hardness; hard water may deepen brown tones slightly. 80–90°C Excellent
Dyer’s Greenweed Bright yellow Lemon yellow Neutral (pH 6.5–7.5) Moderately hard water preferred. Add approximately 1 g/L calcium carbonate if using naturally soft water. 70–80°C Very Good
Elderberries Grey-lilac to muted purple Pale lavender-grey Slightly acidic (pH 5.5–6.5) Soft water helps preserve purple tones. 70°C Poor
Fustic Bright golden yellow Bright yellow Neutral (pH 6.5–7.5) Any to moderately hard water. 80–90°C Very Good
Golden rod Bright yellow Soft yellow Neutral (pH 6.5–7.5) Any water hardness. 80°C Good
Heather Soft yellow Pale yellow Neutral (pH 6.5–7.5) Any water hardness. 80°C Moderate
Henna Burnt orange to copper Warm tan Slightly acidic to neutral (pH 6–7) Soft water gives more even colour. 60°C Good
Ivy Leaves Yellow-green Pale yellow-green Neutral (pH 6.5–7.5) Any water hardness. 80°C Moderate
Logwood Violet-purple Lavender to purple Slightly acidic (pH 5.5–6.5) Soft water helps produce cleaner purples. 80°C Good
Madder Brick red to turkey red Orange-red Neutral (pH 6.5–7.5) Moderately hard water often improves reds. Add approximately 1 g/L calcium carbonate if using naturally soft water. 70°C Many dyers deliberately keep the temperature below 70°C to produce brighter reds and reduce browning. Very Good
Marigold Bright yellow Soft yellow Neutral (pH 6.5–7.5) Any water hardness. 70–80°C Moderate
Oak Bark Warm beige to brown Tan Neutral (pH 6.5–7.5) Any water hardness. 80–90°C Good
Oak Gall Pale cream to soft beige Pale beige Neutral (pH 6.5–7.5) Any water hardness. 80°C Excellent
Persian Berries Brilliant yellow Bright yellow Neutral (pH 6.5–7.5) Moderately hard water preferred. Add approximately 1 g/L calcium carbonate if using naturally soft water. 70–80°C Very Good
Poplar Buds Warm yellow Pale yellow Neutral (pH 6.5–7.5) Any water hardness. 80°C Moderate
Safflower Soft pink to coral** please see note below Pale pink Alkaline extraction followed by acidic dye bath Soft water preferred. 50°C Fair to Moderate
St John’s Wort Yellow Pale yellow Neutral (pH 6.5–7.5) Any water hardness. 80°C Moderate
Sticklac Crimson to ruby red Rose-red Slightly acidic (pH 5.5–6.5) Soft water produces brighter reds. 80–90°C Very Good
Tansy Bright yellow Pale yellow Neutral (pH 6.5–7.5) Any water hardness. 80°C Moderate
Turmeric Brilliant golden yellow Bright yellow Neutral (pH 6.5–7.5) Any water hardness. 70°C Poor
Walnut Husks Rich chocolate brown Mid brown Neutral (pH 6.5–7.5) Any water hardness. Mordant usually unnecessary. 90°C Excellent
Walnut Leaves Olive-yellow to soft brown Yellow-brown Neutral (pH 6.5–7.5) Any water hardness. 80–90°C Good
Weld Brilliant lemon yellow Bright yellow Neutral (pH 6.5–7.5) Moderately hard water preferred. Add approximately 1 g/L calcium carbonate if using naturally soft water. 70–80°C Excellent

* Alkanet Root is highly sensitive to pH and extraction method. Acidic conditions favour red-violet shades, while alkaline conditions shift the colour towards blue.

** Safflower is unique. The yellow dye is water-soluble and easily removed, while the valuable pink/red dye requires alkaline extraction followed by acidification. It therefore doesn’t fit the standard dyeing procedure used for most other natural dyes, and the values shown are simplified for quick reference.

This information has been compiled from published dyeing literature, practical experience and established natural dyeing references. It indicates the colours that could be achieved after using the above mordanting methods and after dyeing with the natural dye. This method is called post-dye modification (after-treatment).

While the dyed fibres are still damp, they can be immersed in a solution containing one of the following mordants to modify the final colour. In general, these modifiers have the following effects on natural dye colours:

  • Alum Mordant – Brightest, clearest shades
  • Iron Mordant – Dulls colours, greys, olives and blacks
  • Copper Mordant – Deepens colours, often greener
  • Tin Mordant – Brightens colours, especially yellows and reds. Must be used sparingly to prevent fibres becoming brittle. Cream of Tartar may be added to help reduce this effect when mordanting wool.
  • Titanium Oxalate Mordant – Produces brighter, cleaner yellows and can enhance warm shades.

We have included a Reliability rating to indicate how consistently each colour change is reported in published dyeing literature and supported by practical experience. Please see below the table for the Key. We will continue to refine these tables as new information and practical experience become available.

Please note: The colours shown are typical results only. Natural dyes are influenced by many factors including fibre type, mordanting method, water quality, dye concentration, temperature and dyeing time. The colours listed should therefore be regarded as a guide rather than an exact prediction.

Table 3. Typical Colour Changes Using Common Dye Modifiers

Natural Dye Iron Modifier Copper Modifier Tin Modifier Titanium Oxalate Reliability
Alder Buckthorn Bark Olive-brown Olive green Brighter golden yellow Slight brightening ★★★★☆
Alkanet Root Slate purple Deep violet Brighter violet-red Slight brightening ★★★☆☆
Annatto Seeds Olive-orange to brown Duller orange-brown Brighter orange Slight brightening ★★★☆☆
Birch Bark Olive-brown Warm olive Brighter yellow Slight brightening ★★★☆☆
Bloodroot Rust brown Burnt orange Brighter orange-red Slight warming ★★★☆☆
Brazilwood Plum purple Deep burgundy Brilliant scarlet Cleaner crimson ★★★★☆
Chamomile Soft olive Warm olive Bright yellow Slight brightening ★★★★☆
Chestnut Dark chocolate brown Rich dark brown Warmer brown Slight warming ★★★★☆
Cochineal Purple to aubergine Deep burgundy Brilliant scarlet Cleaner crimson ★★★★★
Cutch Deep espresso brown Rich dark brown Warmer reddish-brown Slight warming ★★★★★
Dyer’s Greenweed Olive green Moss green Brilliant yellow Brighter, cleaner yellows ★★★★★
Elderberries Grey-purple Duller purple Brighter mauve Slight brightening ★★☆☆☆
Fustic Olive green Green-olive Bright golden Warmer golden ★★★★★
Golden rod Olive green Soft green Bright yellow Slight brightening ★★★★☆
Heather Olive green Green-brown Bright yellow Slight brightening ★★★☆☆
Henna Olive brown Rich brown Brighter copper Slight warming ★★★☆☆
Ivy Leaves Olive green Moss green Brighter yellow-green Slight brightening ★★☆☆☆
Logwood Charcoal grey to black Deep violet-black Brighter violet Slight brightening ★★★★★
Madder Brownish reds, purples, aubergine Deep brick red Brilliant red-orange Brighter warm red ★★★★★
Marigold Olive green Warm green Golden yellow Warmer gold ★★★★☆
Oak Bark Dark brown Rich brown Warmer tan Slight warming ★★★★☆
Oak Gall Blue-grey Grey-brown Slight warming Minimal effect ★★★☆☆
Persian Berries Olive green Green Brilliant yellow Brighter, cleaner yellows ★★★★★
Poplar Buds Olive-brown Brown-green Golden yellow Warmer gold ★★★☆☆
Safflower Grey-pink Soft coral-brown Brighter pink Slight brightening ★★☆☆☆
St John’s Wort Olive-brown Brown-green Bright yellow Slight warming ★★★☆☆
Sticklac Deep plum Rich burgundy Brilliant crimson Cleaner red ★★★★☆
Tansy Olive green Green Bright yellow Slight brightening ★★★★☆
Turmeric Olive-brown Mustard brown Brilliant golden yellow Brighter golden yellow ★★★★☆
Walnut Husks Nearly black Very dark brown Warmer brown Minimal effect ★★★★★
Walnut Leaves Dark olive-brown Rich brown Warmer brown Slight warming ★★★★☆
Weld Olive green Moss green Brilliant lemon yellow Brighter, cleaner yellows ★★★★★

Reliability Key – Rating Meaning

★★★★★ Well documented in the literature and consistently reproduced by experienced dyers.

★★★★☆ Well documented, although results vary slightly with fibre type, mordant concentration or water chemistry.

★★★☆☆ Generally consistent, but published information is more limited or variable.

★★☆☆☆ Limited published evidence; results are less predictable.

★☆☆☆☆ Primarily anecdotal or experimental.

Ready to Start Dyeing?

Natural dyes can be used successfully on a wide variety of fibres, yarns and fabrics. The samples shown below include (top row) Merino pre-felt, white cotton fabric and silk fabric, and (bottom row) mohair yarn, wool yarn and paper yarn. Protein fibres, including wool, silk and mohair, dye readily after mordanting with Alum. Cellulose fibres, including cotton and paper yarn, achieve their best results after mordanting with Aluminium Lactate or by using the traditional tannin-and-alum method described earlier in this guide. Use this guide as a practical reference, then enjoy experimenting to discover the remarkable variety of colours that natural dyes can produce.

Guide to natural dyeing - what will you dye?

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