Double Dyeing Devore Fabric

Double dyeing devore fabric involves using two distinct and different colours in one dye bath, and a fabric made from two different fibre types which take up the two dyes independently. The image below shows how the silk net on the devore cushion cover has taken the silk/wool colour (H Dupont Classique dyes) while the pile has taken the viscose/cotton colour (H Dupont Alter Ego). The fibres (from left to right) include cotton chenille yarn, silk fibre, tencel fibre and wool yarn).

Dyeing devore, fibres and yarns in one dyebath

Complementary colours, or light colours with dark, give the most effective contrast and results will vary depending on the amount of devorant on the fabric.

The dyes offer consistency, have a long shelf life and are quick and simple to apply and use just one container when dyeing devore and other mixed fibre fabrics.

The following recipe is for 25-35g dry fabric, yarns or fibre:

  1. You will need 10ml of Alter Ego dye, 5ml of H Dupont Classic dye, 6 drops of Alter Ego Fixative and 3 drops of vinegar, 5ml of coarse salt.
  2. Stir the ingredients into a pan of warm water (1 litre)
  3. Rinse the fabric, wring out and immerse it still wet in the mixture.
  4. Stir over the heat for 5 minutes. Heat to boiling. Let it boil for 5 minutes.
  5. Remove the pan from the heat and let it cool for 10 minutes.
  6. Rinse the fabric with water and then wash with warm water and soap. It is possible that one of the darker colours takes over and influences, even very slightly the lighter colour.

Dyeing Devore with Acid & Procion MX Dyes

Double dyeing can also be achieved by dyeing the fabric with Acid dyes (which will colour the silk/protein fibres) and Procion MX Fibre Reactive dyes (which will colour the viscose/cellulose fibres). This is a much longer process as the fabric must first be dyed following the instructions for Procion MX Fibre Reactive dyes, then rinsed and wrung out. The fabric is then dyed following the instructions for Acid dyes.

*The AlterEgo Silk colours are being discontinued and only available while stocks last. The double dying technique is still achievable using AlterEgo Viscose colours and Dupont Steam-fix Acid dyes, following the recipe above.

Make your own Devore Fabric

Devore fabric made from silk velvetYou can create devore (from the French devorer – meaning to devour) fabric by using a devorant paste, such as FiberEtch or Dupont Devorant, on a mixed fibre fabric. The devorant destroys (burns out) viscose and plant (cellulose) fibres such as cotton, linen etc.  Other fibres such as polyester and animal fibres, like silk and wool remain intact. It is used to best effect on Velvet fabric where the viscose pile is eaten away and the silk backing remains in place.

Devorants can also be used to burn holes in cellulose fabrics such as 100% cotton and linen to create a lace effect fabric. Often these holes are prone to fraying, making the fabric unsuitable for clothing.

Visit our Devore & AlterEgo Dye section to grab what you need to have a go at home!

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