How to Use Procion MX Fibre Reactive Dyes

What are Procion MX Dyes?

Procion MX dyes, also known as fibre reactive dyes, are the best for dyeing cellulose (plant) fibres such as cotton, linen and sisal.

These dyes can also be used on silk and wool, although protein fibres are coloured more effectively with acid dyes. If using Procion MX dyes on protein fibres, adding Sodium Sulphate Anhydrous (Glauber’s Salt) can help achieve even coverage. It is also beneficial to pre-soak fibres in Synthrapol, which acts as a wetting agent, before placing materials in the dye bath.

As this is the only dye you can fix without using heat, Procion MX dyes are excellent for Batik work where it is crucial to have a cold dye-bath so as not to melt the wax resist.

This website offers concentrated Fibrecrafts Procion MX dyes as well as the premixed colours of Jacquard Procion MX dyes.

Instructions for using Procion MX dyesWhat is a Fibre Reactive Dye?

Procion MX dyes are known as fibre reactive dyes because they form a permanent bond with the fibre molecule by creating a covalent bond.

A covalent bond forms between two non-metallic atoms by sharing electrons — for example, oxygen and hydrogen bond to form water (H₂O).

Instructions for using Procion MX Dyes

Procion MX dyes produce bright, clear colours with excellent wash fastness and light fastness on cotton and other cellulose fibres. They are not highly wash fast on silk or wool.

The basic colours in the Fibrecrafts range can be mixed in any proportion to create thousands of shades.

Colours can be repeated if quantities are carefully measured and recorded. Keeping a folder of samples for future reference is helpful. Results depend on:

  • the recipe used
  • water quality
  • fibre type
  • working time

Some dyers prefer to experiment and enjoy the variation in results.

Adding a thickener such as Manutex RS makes the dye suitable for screen printing, block printing and hand painting.

The concentrated dye powders have a long shelf life when stored in cool, dry, airtight conditions but quickly lose intensity once mixed with water. It is therefore best to prepare small quantities as required and use within 10 days. Solutions may also be frozen for up to 3 months.

Want to Dye Clothing (e.g. T-shirts)?

This is very important. Most dyes — including many sold in supermarkets — will not dye polyester stitching. Please be aware that some modern items of clothing are constructed using these synthetic threads.

Procion MX dyes are among the best dyes available for cotton. When used correctly, they form a permanent bond with the fabric to ensure washfast colour. Use these dyes to give superior results when dyeing fabrics. Best results are achieved on natural, white, or light-coloured fabrics. If starting with a darker colour, you may need to use a dye remover such as Jacquard iDye Color Remover. Jacquard Optical Lightener can be used to lighten and brighten white fabrics prior to dyeing.

Always check garment labels for fibre content. Suitable fibres for dyeing with Procion MX Dyes include:

  • Cotton
  • Linen (Flax)
  • Bamboo
  • Hemp
  • Jute
  • Viscose
  • Modal
  • Tencel (Lyocell)

Follow instructions carefully and ensure the item has been properly prepared for dyeing (see preparation notes below).


Procion MX Dye Recipe and Stock Solution

This recipe is for dyeing cellulose fibres.

  • For convenience, Procion MX dye powder is usually mixed into a 1% solution:
  • Mix 5g powder with a little cold water to form a smooth paste, then make up to 500ml with tap water below 50°C. A stronger solution (up to three times the powder) is needed when dyeing black.

Preparing Fabric for Dyeing (PFD & Scouring)

Before dyeing, check whether the material is Prepared for Dyeing (PFD) or requires scouring.

Place a few drops of cold water on the fabric:

  • If absorbed quickly → ready to dye
  • If water beads → scouring required

To remove starches, oils and sizing:

  • Add 5ml Synthrapol to 2–3 litres of water per 100g fibre. Stir gently for 15 minutes, then rinse thoroughly in warm water.
  • Household detergent may be used, but alkaline residues can affect colour and wash fastness.

Calculating Dye Quantity

Weigh fibre dry before dyeing.

Use 3ml of 1% dye solution per gram of fibre for medium depth colour.

Example:
25g fibre → 75ml dye solution
(50ml blue + 20ml yellow + 5ml black = bottle green)

More dye produces deeper colours; less dye produces paler shades.

Dye Bath Method: Step-by-Step

  1. Weigh dry fibre, yarn or cloth.
  2. Wash and soak thoroughly.
  3. Measure water: use 30ml per gram of fibre.
  4. Suitable containers: glass, enamel, polythene or stainless steel.
  5. Add dissolved dye and stir.
  6. Add clean, wetted fibre and leave 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
  7. Add 40g salt per litre gradually over 10 minutes.
    • Salt drives dye toward the fibre (not a fixative).
    • Not required for tie-dye.
  8. Add 10g soda ash per litre (pre-dissolved).
  9. Leave at least 1 hour (up to 24 hours).
  10. Wash and rinse thoroughly.

Painting, Printing and Tie-Dye Techniques with Procion MX Dyes

  • The dye may be applied using a brush, dropper or spray bottle.
  • Fabric should first be soaked in soda ash solution (10g per litre warm water).
    • For tie-dye (Shibori): tie, soak, wring out, then dye.
    • For batik: allow fabric to dry before apply the batik wax.
  • Adding urea acts as a humectant, keeping fibres damp longer and allowing greater dye reaction.
  • Combine dye, urea and Manutex (sodium alginate) thickener for printing.
Procion MX dye for tie-dyeing
Photo of tie-dye by Alexander Grey

Safety Guidelines when using Dye Powders

There is no substantiated evidence linking Procion MX dyes with chronic illness. Both acid and fibre reactive dyes have long industrial and craft usage histories.

However, sensible precautions should be taken:

  • Avoid inhaling dye powders — they may cause asthma-like reactions.
  • People with respiratory issues should avoid handling dye powders.
  • Wear a dust mask when handling powders or spraying dye solutions.
  • Avoid eye contact, ingestion and prolonged skin contact.
  • Wear gloves and maintain good hygiene.
  • Store clearly labelled containers away from children, pets and food.
  • Dispose of spent solutions responsibly; diluted residues are not known to harm the environment in recommended quantities.

Trouble Shooting Procion MX Dye Problems

Colours washing out or appearing pale?

Possible causes:

  • Dye powder too old (discard after ~1 year).
  • Some colours (e.g. black) require higher dye concentration.
  • Procion H dye used by mistake (requires steam fixing).
  • Dye stored in heat or sunlight.
  • Insufficient soda ash.
  • Fabric has stain-resistant finish or incorrect fibre content.
  • Residual sizing or oils present.

See also: Why Is My Dye the Wrong Colour? Major Factors That Affect Dyeing Results for further information on how to get the best results from your dyes.

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