Using Procion MX Dyes on Wool

Although Acid dyes are usually recommended for protein fibres, Procion MX fibre-reactive dyes can also be used successfully on wool and other protein fibres. Unlike cotton, wool contains amino groups that react with fibre-reactive dyes under acidic conditions. Although the reaction differs from that on cellulose fibres, the resulting colours are generally washfast and lightfast.

Some colours dye more predictably than others. In particular, certain turquoise and blue Procion MX dyes may produce different shades on wool than they do on cellulose fibres.

The following method is designed for dyeing 500g dry weight of wool fibre or yarn.

  • Always test samples before working on a large project.
  • Wear rubber gloves and an apron or old clothes.
  • Utensils used for dyeing should not be used for food preparation.
  • Always read the directions carefully before starting

100% wool yarn for dyeing

Undyed Merino Wool

You will need:

Technique:

  1. Thoroughly pre-soak the wool, using 10 litres of warm (40°C) water, to 500g of wool. Add 2ml of Synthrapol to ensure complete wetting and removal of spinning oils, dirt and other contaminants. Soak for 30 minutes. Squeeze out the excess water before adding the wool to the dye bath.
  2. Make up the dye stock. The amounts required range from 1g for pale colours to a maximum of 10g for dark colours. Black requires up to 25g of dye powder. First make a paste of the dye powder by slowly adding 50ml of water at 20 to 30°C, until there are no lumps. Add a further 250ml of water; stir thoroughly and set aside.
  3. Make up the dye bath in a stainless steel or enamel pot. For 500g of wool, measure 9 litres of water at 30°C and add the following, stirring after each addition:
    • 2ml Synthrapol
    • 15g Citric Acid Crystals (dissolved in a little warm water) or 330ml white vinegar (5% acidity)
    • 500ml of 10% Sodium Sulphate Anhydrous stock solution
    • The dye stock
  4. Add the damp wool to the dye bath. Gradually raise the temperature of the dye bath to just below boiling (approximately 85–90°C) over 45 minutes. Maintain this temperature for 30 minutes for pale shades and up to 60 minutes for black and dark shades. Take care not to agitate the wool fibres too vigorously as this will cause felting. Stir gently and intermittently.
  5. Allow the fibre to cool to room temperature in the dye bath. Rinse well in warm water.

Safety:

Procion MX dyes are widely used by textile artists and industry. As with all dye powders and chemicals, sensible precautions should be taken during handling:

  • Avoid inhaling dusts, they can produce an asthma type reaction. People with known respiratory problems should not handle synthetic dyes, and particularly the fibre reactive dyes, in powder form. A suitable particulate respirator (FFP2 or FFP3) should be worn when working with the powders or when exposed to aerosols generated by spraying dye solutions.
  • Avoid splashing solutions into the eyes, swallowing the materials or prolonged skin contact. A simple ‘non-contact’ approach (most people use gloves to avoid dyeing themselves) plus normal, good, hygiene is sufficient precautions for the occasional user
  • Store in clearly labelled containers well away from children, pets and foodstuffs. Treat dye powders and solutions with the same caution as domestic poisons (e.g. strong cleaners, bleaches or medicines)
  • Dispose of spent solutions containing residues of the dyes responsibly. Small quantities of dilute spent dye solutions can usually be disposed of via the foul sewer (not surface water drains), subject to local regulations. Avoid discharging concentrated dye solutions directly into the environment.

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